Tired of HOB overflow

There shouldn't be. No need to have one on the nut side. Just double check that when you can.

 

How precisely does this work? The pipe on the emergency side has to be higher than the baffle to work, right?

 

There are two. Is there a negative to having two?

 

for the slip to slip fittings... are you using pvc primer and glue?
Using those will eliminate any leaks for sure.

The bulkhead gasket(s) ONLY need to be on the wet side. Using a 2nd gasket does not make things better, it makes them worse!

If you do a durso or gurgle buster on both sides, the "emergency" side really only needs to be about 1/2" longer (taller) than your main drain side. Very simple.

 

Yes, and higher than the one you want to use all the time. Like I said, just get a piece of 2' piece of 1" pipe from Home Depot, and make it an inch higher.

Not at all, just extra security.

Correction to your point is that gaskets need to be on the side opposite the nut, whether it is on the wet side or not. But agreed on using two gaskets not being a good idea.

 

I'll remove the one laying on the nut.

 

Yeah, I used glue. I'll cut off the 2nd gasket tonight. Sump is inoperable right now.

 

This may help you:
http://www.3reef.com/forums/new-hobby/bulkhead-installation-tips-111422.html

I much prefer drilled tanks but U tube HOB overflows are about as simple as you can get. I would trash the slip x slip bulkheads though and install at least thread x slip if not thread x thread and only one gasket on the flange side (doesn't matter if the fange is on the wet or dry side, as long as the gasket is against the flange) is used. In my tips you may find some good info on preparation of the bulkhead and threads that should give you a reliable leak free seal.

 

I fixed my overflow and there are no leaks.

However, my u tube tends to collect bubbles. It never does not it while I'm watching; all the bubbles pass through. If I leave and come back, there is usually an air gap.

I kept the hose in the tube to draw the air out.

 

I ran a CPR overflow for a long time. It doesn't use a tube, but there are two principles I applied to mine. Dual nipples with an aqualifter pump to purge air that can slow down and stop the flow, and dual bulkheads/drains. One was an emergency drain with the water level set just below it by using a gate valve at the bottom of the main drain. If you have a controller you could also mount a float switch in the overflow that would turn off the return if it was close to flooding.

http://www.3reef.com/forums/filters-pumps-etc/modified-cpr-overflow-pics-89609.html#post907237