Ton of questions from the noobie

Hi guys, got great help from you so far, back for more.

Specs first:

30 gallon tank, 15 gallon sump.
Tank: 30lx18hx12w.
Average temp: 82.
Fluval 405 in used alongside my wet/dry in-sump.
C-skim 1200 skimmer.
Current power compact lights (upgrading to a T5 setup suggested to me by pharmjohn, on Wednesday).

I use Prime and API's Marine Stresscoat, along with Cycle. The lady at the fish store suggested I use Coral Life's calciume supplement and Kent's Iodine.

Tank has been up about 5 months now.

Livestock:
3 cleaner shrimp
hermit crabs (tiny) don't know how many. Blue knuckle, about 4
1 Anemone which may or may not be alive.

Damsels:
1 blue,
1 four striped,
1 Talbot's, (added today)
1 What I think is a Damsel, it's a dark gray with a touch of yellow on the inside of the curve of it's tail. (hides alot)

1 Maroon clown

1 Purple Firefish

Bunch of snails.

1 Coral (star polyp)

On to the questions.

1. I can't seem to get my ammonia down. I suspect it may be faulty tests. I've been using API testing kit from day one, bought the test strips and used them alongside to see if I would get any difference, which I did, and I felt like should stick to the titration kits. I also have a seachem test gauge stuck on the glass which reads @ 0 ammonia right now, but with the titration kit I get a reading of either 0 or .50.

I'm not sure what to make of it. I used a syringe to put in 5ml of water in the testing tube which came up above the line that indicates 5ml on the tube. Not sure what to make of that either.

I haven't had any deaths in a month, after the first string I had since the beginning of the tank where I lost two firefish and the one and only hippo tang I ever put in. Today is the first day I've added anything since then, which is the coral and the Talbot's damsel.

I don't think I overfeed, I have an auto feeder as I'm home every other day, and I have it on a pretty low setting. Honestly I rather them be underfed than overfed and aiding in unnecessary ammonia build up.

Nitrites always come up as 0.

Nitrates never seem to dip under 40, but never raise over that.

Any clues? cause I have no idea.

I keep reading that presence of high Nitrates will be indicated by massive algea growth, but I don't have that either.

Moving on to question #2

I got Salifert Alkalinity and Calcium tests today along with the coral frag. The directions say as I continue to drop in it should change from pink to a "clear blue" It's not happening. I've done it about 4 times so far, and most I've got is a kind of purple color. let it be known I'm terribly colorblind, but I can see that it's not blue. It's maintaining that pinkish hue. Last time I tried, I got tired of sitting there doing one drop at a time and swirling and shot the entire syringe off and it turned to the pink/blue color again, anything but "clear blue".

is there an easier or more beginner friendly test anyone can suggest?

The guy who helped me with the coral suggested the test made by instant ocean and when i got to the counter they didn't have any, the boss at the store was most encouraging for me to take the salifert ones. He said "they are far more accurate." Not sure if I got hustled or if he's genuine.

The lack of the color change, does it indicate anything in particular? Cause I've followed the instructions to a T. While it was annoying that had to sit there and do drop by drop, until I did get some blue at the end, does that mean my calcium is high? Too high?

#3
Added in a powerhead that is giving my water a lot of movement. A LOT! The fish seem to have a hard time moving against it. I have it 4" from top of the tank, shooting straight across. It's an azoo 1800 I believe. At first it bothered me, but then it occurred to me how if they were in the wild, the ocean doesn't have much of a flow control, (forgive my ignorance if my assumption may come across foolish.) Is it too much?

I think that's it right now. I had so much to ask earlier. I forgot.

This is probably going to look like a short essay. lol. :;D8)

 

I find it strange that you would have ammonia this late (5 mo) unless you have added something new. Api kits are great but can be faulty (I just had a faulty calcium kit) Have a LFS check your water and see if their results are at least close. If that power head is indeed an 1800 that is way too much flow in a 30 gallon tank.

 

Welcome and good luck. just keep asking questions and we will try to help;D

 

Salifert tests are far superior to API. You paid more, but you weren't swindled.

If the test isn't changing color, either your colorblindness is precluding your ability to make the distinction, or your water is very, very low in calcium. As you know, these tests work by titration--adding a quantity of a substance of known property to another substance until a change takes place. So I suppose just for a test you could begin to shoot another syringe of the last reagent into the vial. I would guess at some point during that second syringe the color change must take place. If you don't see it, it's probably your eyes.

If you're using a PH that seems like it's too strong to you, then it probably is. When it comes to water movement, as reefkeepers we're looking to avoid laminar flow, that is, sustained, unchanging, single-direction flow. The Koralia line of PHs are good because while they are technically laminar, they are diffuse, like holding the pistol grip of a hose valve lightly, rather than creating a sharp stream. Additionally, when it comes to flow, more, subtle powerheads are always better than fewer strong ones. This will allow you more control over avoiding deadspots while preventing the equivalent of a stiff wind.

I counted 6 fish in a 30 gallon tank? That seems like it's WAY overstocked to me. You didn't mention live rock. I hope you have some.

Lastly, I'd avoid the supplements advised to you from the LFS. There are many things we need to keep our reef inhabitants healthy. I think you'll learn from those with experience that chemicals are not one of them.

Keep plugging along. You'll get there! Good luck!!

 

Hi guys, got great help from you so far, back for more.

Specs first:

30 gallon tank, 15 gallon sump.
Tank: 30lx18hx12w.
Average temp: 82. A little high IMHO. Work on bringing that down.
Fluval 405 in used alongside my wet/dry in-sump. Make sure you are servicing this at least every 3-4 weeks.
C-skim 1200 skimmer.
Current power compact lights (upgrading to a T5 setup suggested to me by pharmjohn, on Wednesday).

I use Prime and API's Marine Stresscoat, along with Cycle. The lady at the fish store suggested I use Coral Life's calciume supplement and Kent's Iodine. Iodine for sure will not be needed, as long as you are doing regular water changes. You also have to be very careful with it, as if you screw it up even the littlest bit, you will literally kill everything. I HIGHLY do not recommend dosing iodine, ever, if you have a regular water change schedule. And as always, NEVER EVER dose anything you are not currently testing and fully understand.

Tank has been up about 5 months now.

Livestock:
3 cleaner shrimp
hermit crabs (tiny) don't know how many. Blue knuckle, about 4
1 Anemone which may or may not be alive. Probably alive, as if it had died everything else in the tank would be dead. Regardless, (please understand I mean absolutley no offence here), as a newbie with PC lighting, I highly recommend you get rid of it. Not worth the consiquences. Anemone nuking is something I have experienced firsthand, and would never want to see someone else go down that road. IMHO anemone's have no place in a community reef tank, period.

Damsels:
1 blue,
1 four striped,
1 Talbot's, (added today)
1 What I think is a Damsel, it's a dark gray with a touch of yellow on the inside of the curve of it's tail. (hides alot)

1 Maroon clown

1 Purple Firefish

Bunch of snails.

1 Coral (star polyp)

On to the questions.

1. I can't seem to get my ammonia down. I suspect it may be faulty tests. I've been using API testing kit from day one, bought the test strips and used them alongside to see if I would get any difference, which I did, and I felt like should stick to the titration kits. I also have a seachem test gauge stuck on the glass which reads @ 0 ammonia right now, but with the titration kit I get a reading of either 0 or .50.
First off, toss the strips. They are completely worthless. I wouldn't trust a test strip, of any brand, as far as I would toss it. In all honesty there are no words to describe how bad strips really are.
Now, API does make decent LIQUID tests. But looking at above info, I would say most of your ammonia problems could be from being overstocked. But, to narrow it down more, I need to know the sandbed info, and how much rock you have. You have two choices with ammonia problems: Either add more biological filtering if possible (rock), or reduce the livestock.
I'm not sure what to make of it. I used a syringe to put in 5ml of water in the testing tube which came up above the line that indicates 5ml on the tube. Not sure what to make of that either.

I haven't had any deaths in a month, after the first string I had since the beginning of the tank where I lost two firefish and the one and only hippo tang I ever put in. Today is the first day I've added anything since then, which is the coral and the Talbot's damsel.

I don't think I overfeed, I have an auto feeder as I'm home every other day, and I have it on a pretty low setting. Honestly I rather them be underfed than overfed and aiding in unnecessary ammonia build up.
So you are feeding everyday? If thats the case, you are probably grossly overfeeding. I feed 2-3 times a week, and that is overfeeding. Can you please describe exactly what and how much you are feeding? I also highly suggest getting rid of the auto feeder, as all they are is a disaster waiting to happen. They can not and should not be trusted.
Nitrites always come up as 0.

Nitrates never seem to dip under 40, but never raise over that.

Any clues? cause I have no idea.

I keep reading that presence of high Nitrates will be indicated by massive algea growth, but I don't have that either.
Not neccasarily. Nitrates are only one nutrient of a very complex system that many algae's need to thrive.

Moving on to question #2

I got Salifert Alkalinity and Calcium tests today along with the coral frag. The directions say as I continue to drop in it should change from pink to a "clear blue" It's not happening. I've done it about 4 times so far, and most I've got is a kind of purple color. let it be known I'm terribly colorblind, but I can see that it's not blue. It's maintaining that pinkish hue. Last time I tried, I got tired of sitting there doing one drop at a time and swirling and shot the entire syringe off and it turned to the pink/blue color again, anything but "clear blue".

is there an easier or more beginner friendly test anyone can suggest?
API

The guy who helped me with the coral suggested the test made by instant ocean and when i got to the counter they didn't have any, the boss at the store was most encouraging for me to take the salifert ones. He said "they are far more accurate." Not sure if I got hustled or if he's genuine.

The lack of the color change, does it indicate anything in particular? Cause I've followed the instructions to a T. While it was annoying that had to sit there and do drop by drop, until I did get some blue at the end, does that mean my calcium is high? Too high?

#3
Added in a powerhead that is giving my water a lot of movement. A LOT! The fish seem to have a hard time moving against it. I have it 4" from top of the tank, shooting straight across. It's an azoo 1800 I believe. At first it bothered me, but then it occurred to me how if they were in the wild, the ocean doesn't have much of a flow control, (forgive my ignorance if my assumption may come across foolish.) Is it too much?

I think that's it right now. I had so much to ask earlier. I forgot.

This is probably going to look like a short essay. lol. :;D8)\\

For now, you need to completely stoip adding anything. Stop water changes. Get a quality LIQUID test kit to do your testing, and throw away the strips.
The only other thing I can suggest is why are you using all the conditioners? Are you using tap water? If so, have you tested the tap? That could very well be the root of your problem. Also, please get back to us on the amount of rock you have in the tank. I would also like to know what the waterflow situation is in your tank. And as a final comment, you might want to add an airstone in that wet-dry.
I hope you dont mind my essay there as well

 

i would ditch the auto feeder and just feed when you are home. every other day is sufficient this is adding to your nitrates.
Get that anemone OUT! it will crash your entire tank!
I would remove some fish. you are really pushing it in a 30 gallon. I have a 36 gallon and only have 2 clowns and a sixline, but want ONE more.

 

Guys, thanks for all the suggestions!

1. I have about 30-40 lbs of live rock, I would estimate.

2. I have about an inch of live sand, as the bed.

3. I only put in a single drop of the iodine, won't touch the bottle till I need. I was told to use it as a supplement.

4. I forgot to mention I have been using "Reef Solution". Can't remember the brand. But that's the name of the product. I use it about every other day. The bottle said everyday is for "best results".

5. I had a feeling I have been overfeeding. Now that pack leader says a few times a week, I'm definitely going to pull that auto feeder off!

6. I have been feeding frozen shrimp and granules made by Tetra. I alternate. I tried seaweed, but they don't even bother with it and I figured it was just toxifying the water unnecessarily.

7. I'm going to take ReefSparky's advice and put in another syringe of the regeant and see it that helps in making the color change happen. makes sense.

8. I actually have another fish, Diamond Goby I forgot about. Didn't realize how many I had until now. I don't intend on adding anything else.

9. I'm gonna pull apart that tank and try to get that anemone out if I can find it. I think it got sucked by one of the powerheads earlier today, and I saw it sinking. Haven't seen it since. It didn't go through the powerhead, there's a grill that kept it from going in and pulled the powerhead out pretty fast when i saw what was about to happen. I have the strngest feeling this sin't going to end well at all.

10. As for the temp being high @ 82, I'm going to get a fan set up and probably attach it to the sump to try bring the temp down. A chiller is way out of my budget right now.

11. The Hippo tang I got pretty small, maybe 3/4" big, I intend on getting a larger tank as soon as I have the space. This 30 gal is gonna run as long as I have no other choice.

12. Packleader mentioned the power compact lighting. It's gonna be gone on wednesday hopefully. UPS says the T5 Setup is supposed to be delivered then.

13. As for the airstone in the wet-dry, I like that idea. I do have an airpump that i found today. Going to add it now. Put it under the bioballs box, have the air go straight up into it.


Guys, I'm open to everone's experience and input, thank you. I have a lot to learn and willing.

It's 11:14pm, going to pull that tank apart to get that anemone out. I won't be home next couple days, rather not get back home and find everyone dead cause of my laziness.

Keep the input coming.

 

I found it!!!!

It was under a rock close to where it vanished. It looks alive, but small chubby Vienna sausage like tentacles.

Should I put it in one of those floaty boxes or just flush it down the toilet?

I really don't wanna lose my entire tank because of it. I won't be home next couple days but if i leave it in the box and it dies I can have someone just grab the box out for me.





sorry about the blurry pics, crappy camera + trying to operate with one hand.

 

It seems fresh and salt water certainly have their similarities. I'm just getting started in marine fish, but these sound like problems common to all aquariums, so I hope I can help. I have two things to add:

First off I would take about 4-6oz of your water to at least one LFS and get their opinions on your water. It never hurts to test twice. It seems obvious but bears mentioning: Use a clean GLASS container. If it has a metal lid make sure you line it with saran wrap or a plastic bag on the top, and avoid letting the plastic contact the water. Plastic is porous and can alter test parameters. I use a lab flask w/ a cork.

Second, more of an opinion that a suggestion. Your LFS sounds a little on the greedy side. it's not uncommon for sales people to up-sell you on stuff you don't need. Water conditioners and cheap test kits are common. I am a proponent of some cycle-starting items. There are certainly bacteria that can be added to "jump start" a tank, but go easy. I am using Stability, but where it calls for 5ml per 10gal I am using 5ml per 20gal. If it takes a week or two off my total cycle I think it will have been worth it. If not, I'm stuck with a bottle of bacteria.

Further, the bioload in your tank is seemingly out of whack. If the LFS sold you all those fish and knew you only had a 30 gallon tank then they do NOT have your best interests in mind, and are hoping you just replace fish every few weeks. I have seen it a few times with a LFS selling freshwater fish and I don't shop w/ them any more. my LFS I use now knows I have a 58g tank and wont sell me more than 3 maybe 4 fish until I get a well established tank going.

Anyways, don't get discouraged, a tank can take a long time to find a balance. I would follow the advice to ditch the anemone, clown fish do not absolutely need their host. In the wild it's a refuge for juveniles, but in a tank there's no symbiotic relationship that makes the risk worth it.

 

Are you guys saying the anemone is something I should stay away from in general, or something I should stay away from right now, as I'm a novice/tank can't support it?