Torch bleaching and possible RTN on Pink Lemonade

I will include pictures but after returning from being out of town for about 3 days I noticed my small torch that had been fragged off of a small colony in my biocube hqi has bleached quite a bit, I think it had probably started before I left for my trip. But then today I noticed what I believe to be RTN on my pink lemonade acro, I can clearly see that their is a small patch of tissue that has essentially fallen off from that area of skeleton. Since returning from the trip I have started running GFO on the tank and also did a 20 gallon water change to combat a thick green skin that has developed on my sand bed over the past few months. I did notice what I believe to be some hydrogen sulfide in a few small areas which I vacuumed out along with the whole surface off of my sand bed (at this point the torch had already shown signs of bleaching) and the Pink Lem may have had RTN already also I am unsure. The light bulbs are kind of old on the tank, but just changed 2 of them to UVL aquasun's today. The pink lem acro has been in the tank for about 2.5 months and the torch about 2 months.
My params are as follows:
Amm-0
Nitrate-0
DKH-10
Calc-500
Phos- Apx 2 weeks before starting gfo was at .02 unknown atm
I do not dose anything.
Should I be trying to super glue the area of possible RTN or frag the piece off?

 

So this happened before or after the GFO?

How much GFO did you start with amount wise?

Might want to cut that back some. If you already had some issues the introduction of a lot GFO at one time could have only stressed everything out more.

Unfortunate and frustrating. :-(

 

The torch issue had definitely already been present before the GFO and I am not sure about the RTN on the acro. I think that it had probably already been present as well. I started with about 25 tbsp of granular gfo, slightly below the brs recommendation. My other tank I started much slower with GFO, but the phosphate was already apx .02 roughly when I started it so there shouldnt have been any major phosphate shock from the rapid reduction. The system is 110g btw. Any idea as to what I should do to try to save the 2 corals? I could shut down the gfo reactor for now, should I try to super glue the RTN area or frag it off? Or just wait it out?

 

I would cut back on the GFO to half.

Seems like if there was issues with phosphates of only .02 parts it would not shock it too much, not an ideal value but not bad IMO.

I suspect there is a shock component though.

I would try the super glue gel first and hope for the best.

So the Torch went from HQI to T5? I would consider moving that down still.

Release of hydrogen sulfide is a problem and hard to predict how it will affect the corals and for how long.

Good luck.

 

Yes the torch went from the bottom of a biocube hqi (so apx 17 inches under 150w mh) and is now about 12 inches below a 4 bulb t5 in a 90g. Do you think it should be lower in the 90g?

 

I can not see how lowering it will hurt it.

Since the change in coloration happened after the move and started before the GFO, it seems like a lighting change issue.

It might also just appear to be a coloration change based on the coloration or spectrum difference between the MH and the T5. It may not be actually bleaching.

 

It went from being a deep deep pink to being near snow white just below the green tips, my only thing with lowering it is I feel like it would be getting less light than under the 150w mh. And it was under the T5 for apx 1.5-2 months before I noticed the supposed bleaching.

 

Let John take a look at the thread.

I sent him a message.

 

Okay, thanks coralline I really appreciate your help.

 

You can easily cut in half the amount of GFO you are using from BRS. Their recommendation is at least twice what OEMs recommend and they are using the same material.

I would say too many large changes in a short period caused the issue with the acro.

The torch is definitely bleached from light inhibition. Your T5s are much stronger than the 150w MH. Move the torch to the sand and frag off the RTN arm of the acro is what I would do.