UPDATE 9/16 - Gabby and Brian's 90g Reef

Discussion in 'Show Off Your Fish Tanks!' started by gabbyr189, May 27, 2012.

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  1. pink4miss

    pink4miss Panda Puffer

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    hard to say what was wrong before before? glad it working now. i have never had a problem with my router sending me texts or emails from the apex using a gaming adapter. except from when the one router last connection and would have to be re programmed. than it would be fine again. switched routers to a linksys and have not had an issue since.
     
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  3. gabbyr189

    gabbyr189 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    Okay. Well now that the tank is full, I will stop adding the water change water. I actually think I have read this before now that I come to think of it.

    Yes I have scattered a few pieces of LR throughout. Probably about 10 lbs (but I probably need more). The problem is that most of the good LR that I have has coral on it. Adding the rock from the second tub may cause a cycle. I suppose I should frequently test for NH3. If it starts to spike, I would just do as many WC's as I can to get it down. Does this sound reasonable? Though, if the beneficial organisms on the surface of the cycling rock are "dying off," I wouldn't imagine that it would quickly seed the dry rock (because it would have to first partially "reseed" itself). Alternatively, I could just add the good rock with the coral on it. This sounds like a better plan..

    As the beneficial bacteria colonize in the sand, I would imagine that it would become somewhat heavier. Is this true? I'm not sure of the weight of the bacteria is significant when compared to the weight of the grains of sand. I suppose it also depends on the amount of bacteria that grows.

    I would aim them at the surface, but the only reason I want that excessive amount of flow is for the SPS. If the powerheads are pointed at the surface, then they won't be contributing to much flow within the tank. Also, the reason I wanted the flow from several less powerful powerheads, rather then a few strong ones, is because I want to avoid having dead spots like I did in my last tank.

    Good point!! Why didn't I think of that? And thanks! I really appreciate it. You have already brought up several interesting points.
     
  4. gabbyr189

    gabbyr189 Bubble Tip Anemone

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    Part of me wants to forget about this issue, as it is no longer a problem. On the other hand, I just want to know! I want to learn more about the programing also. I am thinking of incorporating fans into the canopy and want to write programs for those. I was also thinking about getting the IO breakout box and setting up some float switches. Though, I'm not really sure what type of float switches are compatible. Additionally, at some point in the future, I hope to incorporate a frag tank into the system. I have an extra overflow lying around from the old 37g tank, so the IO breakout box would be useful there too. Not to mention for topoff..

    Do you know what kind of float switches I would need? I'd like to look up the price. The module is only $40 bucks... I wonder how much float switches cost. I did get one for a matter of cents on ebay once. Brians dad built us an auto top-off from stuff he had lying around in the garage.. Not sure if its the same type of float switches.
     
  5. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

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    Congrats and looking good, Gabby (and Brian)!

    Im concerned about the rocks. When I did 29 to 90 upgrade, I cured (cycled) the dry rocks for 2 months in a separate Rubbermaid before the transfer. Were the dry rocks cured before you put the corals in? How long have the dry rocks been wet?

    Keep a real close eye on the corals and params. Have at least 20 gallon of fresh salt water ready in case things start go south when you start transferring fish.
     
  6. bbrian189

    bbrian189 Skunk Shrimp

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    Hi Everyone! Thanks for your support so far. Our tank would have crashed 100 times already if it wasnt for all of your help.

    I have a question: would adding our clownfish and wrasse to the new 90g help speed up the biological growth phase and allow for more beneficial bacteria to grow?

    Thanks!
     
  7. exactlyobp

    exactlyobp Giant Squid

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    Hi Brian!

    I would hold off on the wrasse, since they are more sensitive to param changes (what kind of wrasse, btw?), but on the other hand, clowns are a lot hardier, so if the param readings are fine, Id release them in the new 90!

    I almost forgot, there is the 90 gallon thread, you might wanna check out to see what other 90ers have with their setups :)
     
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  9. bbrian189

    bbrian189 Skunk Shrimp

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    Okay, the wrasse is a Melanuarus wrasse. He's awesome, eats all the crap and keeps some of our corals clean.
     
  10. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

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    Hey Brian and Gabby,

    Looking good.

    Maybe consider adding some MB7 or similar product.

    IMO you do need to seed the tank with either more rubble from the bin or a product and allow some time before adding the fish.

    With Gabby's attention to detail do you have any Prime or similar product on hand?
     
  11. Vinnyboombatz

    Vinnyboombatz Giant Squid

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    I actually would just go ahead and add all your LR. I am assuming your fish are in the tub with your corals? Your bacteria population will wax and wane depending on the available nutrients. If you have enough bacteria in the tub to keep the fish and corals then you will have enough to keep them alive in the 90.(with little or no cycle) The increase in water volume will not be a factor. It is always nerve racking I know.;)
     
  12. Dingo

    Dingo Giant Squid

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    Hey guys, build is looking great!!! Great craftsmanship on the stand.

    Cheryl, I am 1000% against these bacterial additives. As a good bit of people have had great results with them, I also know of quite a few that have not had good results with them... Myself being one of them. It led to a crash of my established bacterial population.

    Also, these supplements are no more than the bacteria found in a septic tank. It is only water put into a sewage container with nitrates and phosphates constantly added. They are not genetically isolated or modified bacteria.
     
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