Used RODI

Discussion in 'Filters, Pumps, etc..' started by Scail, Feb 16, 2012.

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  1. cosmo

    cosmo Giant Squid

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    Yeah but u prob don't need one! Chances are ya'd need a pump first! Ya need about 55-100 psi higher the better
     
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  3. coylee_17

    coylee_17 Fire Goby

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    The flow restrictor is built into the unit, either as an inline kinda check valve looking thing, or actually a piece that goes into the line by the membrane. You'll see them online at spectrapures site for sure and this will make more sense.

    As for a pump it all depends on what you have for pressure in your house, my city pressure is at about 90 pounds so I don't use one, but if your pressure is low you may need a booster pump.
     
  4. coylee_17

    coylee_17 Fire Goby

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    Flow restrictor doesn't control pressure ;). it controls how much water passes through the membrane (to keep the 4:1 waste water ratio, my unit was getting 1:1 ratio and I replaces the restrictor, back to 4:1, same pressures)
     
  5. coylee_17

    coylee_17 Fire Goby

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    Just re read my post, sorry the flow restrictor should be on the clean water line after the membrane ;)
     
  6. cosmo

    cosmo Giant Squid

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    My bad was thinking of a pressure regulator, I don't have or need a flow restrictor so just forgot about it! Oops
     
  7. Bustopher

    Bustopher Skunk Shrimp

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    Looks like some Water General POS.

    Like stated earlier. Just get a Sediment, two carbons and throw that DI thing in the trash and get a DI add-on kit.

    The black line is the waste line. Some of those WG units the flow restrictor is in the fitting. But it looks like they have replaced the fittings on the unit. Pull the black line and see if there is a restrictor in there.
     
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  9. BuckeyeFieldSupply

    BuckeyeFieldSupply Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    You have what we call an "ebay special" there. My guess is it has a 100 gpd no-name membrane. Without knowing the history of the unit, I can't really say much about the conditions of any of the filters of the membrane. Hopefully the system hasn't set aroung unused for more than a couple of weeks.

    Assuming you are on city water and don't have chloramines in your water, I'd go with:
    *1 micron sediment filter
    *0.5 micron carbon block
    *leave third prefilter housing empty - no need for two carbon blocks if you use a good quality block.
    *as mentioned above, punt that horizontal DI and either get a DI add on kit, or if you are handy, we can provide you instructions as to how to convert that unused prefilter stage into your DI stage.
    *think about getting a high rejection 75 gpd membrane and a new flow restrictor to match.
    *add a pressure gauge add on kit - w/o it you're flying blind
    *if you are going to load in new filters, sanitize the system before you do that.

    Russ
     
  10. BuckeyeFieldSupply

    BuckeyeFieldSupply Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    flow restrictors are installed somewhere in/on the waste water tube, or are sometimes inside the fitting in the waste water port on the RO membrane housing.

    [​IMG]

    Russ
     
  11. 55gfowlr

    55gfowlr Zoanthid

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    Your LFS should be able to help you out checking to see what filters you need to replace. Mine just helped me out big time as I did the same thing you did. As long as your membrane is in good shape, all you'll need to replace is the 2 carbon and like stated earlier, I'd get a vertical DI unit, and be sure it's refillable. Mine didn't come with that top DI Jig, but once we replaced my filters and resin, it was pushing out 00 with the meter, that's good. Really, what you're wanting in a good RODI unit is quality filter media. As long as your unit isn't cracked, and the double O-rings are in good shape, hoses and connectors are good, you'll be fine.
     
  12. Scail

    Scail Astrea Snail

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    Well it looks like I do have a flow restrictor installed. I am pretty handy (build houses for a living) so I would feel comfortable modding the third chamber into a DI chamber if you showed me how. My main goal now is to get a functional unit with as little spending as possible. If the total of the parts I need approaches $150 then I may just scrap this idea and go with a new unit.