UV Sterilizer. Do I need one?

Ive got a 40 breeder with a 10 gallon sump and protein skimmer. Ive had it for about 2 years running in the corner of my room but never really did much with it. Randomly last week I went nuts and started cleaning and trying to get it into shape. Water was tested for the first time in a year and perameters were PERFECT. The LFS didnt believe i hadent touched the thing for that long of a time. All I ever did was add fresh ro water. Anywho....I have liverock but im not sure how much (maybe 30 pounds). Livestock include small Ebili Mimic Tang, Oc Clown, Branching Hammer, 2 zoo frags. I was wondering if i need a sterilizer. Ive read a few places about the benifits of water clarity and getting rid of algae by using the sterilizer. The water is clear but not crystal (it has a green tinge). If I was to get one does anyone have suggestions?

 

Getting one with the proper flow to kill exactly what you want can be tricky. For killing algae you want one with a higher flow rate as compared to the slow flow rate it takes to kill disease. I run one to keep algae under control and it seems to work pretty well. I can see a huge difference in my tank if I shut it off for awhile. The good news is the unit I use and would recommend is the small unit they sell at Petsmart. It's inexpensive, compact, does a good job and so far seems pretty reliable. Be sure to keep the intake filter sponge clean if you decide to go with one. As it clogs it will slow the flow rate and not do the same job as it did when new.

 

Thanks for the advice!

Which unit would that be?

 

I don't remember who it's made by, but they only sell two. I use the smaller version they carry.

 

Petsmart.com - Fish: Filtration & Circulation: UV Sterilizers: Internal UV Sterilizer w/Power Head & Lamp Replacements
could this be it?

 

No offence, but if you have green water, your parameters aren't "perfect." ;D

Algae in the water column is usually caused by elevated phosphates. The algae "locks in" the phosphate, so when you test your water phosphate may read 0 ppm.

I had a similar problem, and a UV sterilizer totally cleared my water in about two days. So, it would temporarily solve your problem. However, if you don't get rid of the phosphates some other form of non water borne nuisance algae will just start to use it.

I used a couple of bags of phos-zorb in my sump, and it got my levels down to unreadable within 5 days.

I've since installed a phosphate reactor.

 

Forgot to mention:

If you don't want to go the UV sterilizer route, you can cut back on your lighting cycle, or totally turn them off for a period of time.

There are lots of options. However, you won't get a perfect solution unless you do something that kills the algae bloom AND removes the phosphate from your tank.

 

"Well allow me to retart!" -Samuel L. Jackson Pulp Fiction
The LFS didnt use the exact words perfect. I do remember now that I had "a little" phosphate. Your very correct by saying that. I also havent done a water change yet since my rekindled interest in my tank. Which sterilizer did/do you use? Also when i say green tinge the wanter is not at all cloudy but like looking through auto glass that has a green tint. If that makes any sense! Thanks for the input!

 

I use a Coralife Turbotwist. The design is supposed to maximize the time that the water is exposed to the UV light, so you can have higher flow through it and still get a good kill ratio.

If the algae is in your water column, and not on your glass, it's a phytoplankton bloom. I bet that if you increased your lighting, it would turn cloudy in a hurry.

If you post your parameters, you'll get better advice. Did you test for magnesium?

 

That UV sterlizer linked is made my AA. I use one in my 29 gallon tank, and the water is crystal clear. They are also pretty cheap (I payed around 50 bucks for mine) and small enough to fit in almost any sump. I've been running it since November and the bulb that came with the unit is still working well.