Wanting to buy a boat

I have a 22' Mitch Craft, Jet Bay Flier
175hp Merc sportjet in-board I can run over 6' crests or in 3" of water love the jet but it's biggest downfall is it's fuel efficiency. If your going with a new boat get a Mako with a Merc Verado or 2 on the rear, you'll pay more for the engines but the supercharged 4 strokes have tons of low end torque and run at higher rpm's using far less fuel. I'm a lake fisherman but the lake I fish year round is on the planes here in Oklahoma and 30mph winds there = 4' waves so big bay boats are really the only option for striper fisherman like me. Blue Wave is another great manufacturer to look into, their produced here in Oklahoma but are super popular in Tx around the gulf they make a 24' single engine rig that can run 75 miles off shore as long as the weather isnt to crazy. Also be ready to spend at least 5k in electronics on whatever you buy, just a nice Lowrance HDS10 with side scan and weather is about 3k and if you add broadband radar thats another 2500 and a good VHF radio is a must for off shore

 

I really dont see much of an advatage an outboard, inboard, or I/O has over one or the other as far as reliabilty goes. It's about what you want to do with your boat.
I make a living as a service advisor for a marina in the Fl Keys. We're a Hatteras, Cabo, SeaRay, Azumit, Bertram, Contender, Boston Whaler and Laguna dealer and a box dealer for Yamaha and Mercury. Before our contract renewal in '08 we also had Robalo, Mako, Edgewater and Tiara. Before that I was a salesman at another dealership, selling Key West and Panga, as well as platinum box dealer for Yamaha, Mercury, Evinrude, and Suzuki. Not to mention all the trade-in used boats we've had in inventory. If you name a boat/motor combo i've probably ran it. If I haven't ran it, I've probably been on it and seen it inside and out.
If I wanted a good, small, affordable boat for offshore fishing I would be looking for something like a 25' Contender or Mako w/ twin Yamaha 200HPDI's. Mercury runs a little faster, for a shorter amount of time. People swear by the fourstrokes, which run great, especially over the past few years since all the bugs have been worked out. The Verado's on the the other hand; lets just say unless they were given to me for free, I wouldn't want them hangin' off my transom. I'm still a diehard fan of two-strokes. They're lighter, faster, and less expensive and easier to maintain than the fourstrokes. Not as fuel effecient though, unless you're talking about an E-Tec. Even the new OptiMax's are pretty easy on fuel. Peaople say the fourstokes are more reliable. I've seen old OX-66's with literally thousands of hours on them that run like champs. You simply cannot break them. I've also seen brand new F250's with 30 hours on them come into my shop with half a rod hangin' out the block.
Also if you really want a fishing boat, I would get a center console. Boats with cabins usually end up as big storage compartments to collect mold. You lose alot of fishing room too.
Mako's are great boats. I write at least 10 to 20 work orders a week on Mako's. As old as early 70's still in great shape. Just walk around the deck barefoot to feel out soft spots. I have seen quite a few Mako's that have gotten soft. Look over the transom really good for stress cracks. If you think about it, kick the prop(s). If you see any wobble ask if you can drain the gear case. Takes 2 minutes and $5 worth of lube. If it's milky knock at least few hunred off for a prop shaft, seals, and labor. If you see any metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug knock off a few thousand for a new lower unit. Get a compression test done. Any more than 5% less of what that particular motor should read, just walk away. And PLEASE do not hand over a penny until you sea-trial the boat. You would be amazed how many new boat owners say "but it ran great on the hose when i bought it" right after I tell them they have two cylinders that read 0 compression. And then I ask for a $6K check for a new powerhead...
Oops...didn't mean to write too much

 

I could have not said it better... A sea run will make or "sink" a boat. And if a dealer does not want to take you on a sea run, literally run..

I cant tell you how many people have bought a boat on a trailer to only see that they just spent 10K plus on getting it ready for the sea.

my favorite acronym... BOAT.. Bet On Another Thousand. I promise its true

 

Wow!!!. Ty everyone, this is some great information. I was talking to one of my office tenant yesterday who is in the market for a canyon bay boat and he echoed the same thing on if the seller does not want you to test it out on the water head the other way. He also told me once I get the boat I want lined up have a mechanic look at it and spend a couple hundred rather than a couple thousand.

 

Oh yeah, on water tests are 100% mandatory IMHO.

 

If you can, have a certified mechanic go with you to check the boat out, instead of having it checked out after you've already bought it. If he tells you you just got ripped off, I seriously doubt the previous owner is going to give you your money back. Offer a mechanic $100 to spend half an hour going over everything. Cheap insurance if you're ready to drop thousands of $ on something. I've got 8 techs that work for me and they do side jobs like this all the time.
Also if you're buying used from a dealer ask if any extended warranties are available.

 

A lot of mechanics will offer a check over service, the one I use offers a full boat check for $100, they verify all the compression and electrical for that and check the hull over for any cracks or soft spots