Water General 150 GPD 6-Stage RO/DI Water Filtration System.

Up until this point I have been utilizing Poland Spring water as top off freshwater for my aquarium. This probably has brought on most of the algae issues as I use Nutri-Seawater for my regular salt mix. It utilizes an Aquatec 8800 Booster Pump since the main water pressure is only 35 PSI. This unit requires a minimum 60 PSI to function properly. I am pretty happy with the system so far. I made my first batch of top off freshwater and I'm hoping to see some phosphate levels drop in the next few weeks.


My new Water General 150 GPD RO/DI Water Filtration Unit. Some Assembly required.




Aquatec 8800 Booster Pump which pulls water from the kitchen sinks main cold water source.




Plumbing split from the kitchen sink main cold water source. One goes to the Aquatec 8800 Booster Pump and the other goes to my refrigerator.




My new Water General 150 GPD RO/DI Water Filtration Unit installed under the kitchen sink.

 

Looks good. I had one a long time ago, they woek. The replacement filters for the are super expensive, but you shouldn't need to buy filters from them IIRC.

 

Water General/Filters Direct is a low end system but can be improved upon as filters need replaced in 6 months. The real test is what your TDS meter tells you, take the tap water TDS, RO only TDS and final RO/DI TDS readings often to track its performance. The booster pump is a good choice, membranes love pressure and they also love softened water of you have it available. I commented on a way to improve your DI performance and lifespan in on of your other threads. It really helps.

 

Marc over at Melevs reef is selling a similar boost pump version you may want to check out.
My city puts chloramines in the water so Im about to order a 6 stage chloramine RO/DI system. Evidently they need a slower gallon per day so the water stays In contact with the carbon block longer.
Since we don't really test for chlorine and chloramine I figure a safe route.
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Chloramines really are not an issue for a good 0.5 or 0.6 micron carbon block which removes the chlorine portion of chloramines and breaks the bond with the ammonia, one block is all you need. Granular catalytic carbons are good for high flow commercial systems such as cooling towers that use much higher disinfectant residuals than the 1-2 ppm you see in drinking water.

The real issue is the ammonia portion the carbon and the membrane do not remove. To get the ammonia portion of chloramines you need good DI resin and good contact time.

If you want bang for your buck get dual DI or at a minimum a full size 20 oz vertical DI and good resin, not catalytic carbon.

 

Reply to AZDesertRat.

Thank you. I definitely appreciate the help. I do plan on doing just that when I change the filters and I will be placing an inline Dual TDS meter in the coming weeks to monitor the water accordingly.

 

Reply to Av8bluewater.

I plan on adding additional stages down the road because I want to have a chlorine guzzler block and a silicate blocks as well. That water hear is not too bad.

 

Reply to AZDesertRat.

You are a water GOD ;D Really you do know your stuff I am your pupil!

 

Don't add more stages, replace the ones you have with better filters. More is not better since every "stage" you add reduces the pressure available to the membrane, in your case with a booster that is not as important but no need for more, just better.

Do yourself a favor and pass on the dual inline TDS meters. Instead get a good handheld which is more accurate due to being temperature compensated and more versatile. To troubleshoot a RO/DI system you need at least 3 TDS readings, not two like the inline is limited to and if you have dual DI you need 4 TDS reading points. Tap water, RO only, first DI and final RO/DI TDS. The inlines cannot do that, cannot be used portable and are not as accurate expecially at low range like RO and RO/DI TDS. A good handheld from the same manufacturer, HM Digital costs the same $20-$25 but is temperature compensated so more accurate, can be used anywhere, and can be easily calibrated if needed. You will want to test your tap water, softened water if you have it, RO water, both DI stages, ATO storage, your buddies water, the LFS water, bottled water etc.

 

Reply to AZDesertRat.

I definitely will look into one. Thanks for the recommendation.