water level too high in display tank?

Cliff notes:
Water level height 1/2"-3/4" from plastic bracing
Water level 50% height inside internal overflow box (3 sided)
Water level 100% height outside overflow box but not going over teeth
Pump 20-30% power mag 9.5
outlet 2-1" bulkheads vented durso style, good flow

Question:
Is it safe or should i relocate or take out some teeth from internal overflow to lower water level?

My water level is about 1/2" from the plastic bracing on my 75g. can see the euro brace slightly submerged in water from looking into the tank.

internal overflow water level is about all the way up to the grate but not splashing irradically over it [*inside over flow water level is less than 50% of over flow box height, so good output through pipes] uniformly going through the grates.

2-1" durso overflow pipes (outside of tank) are keeping up with mag 9.5 turned down to about 20-30% of total flow (70%-80%) is getting bypassed back into the sump. any more flow and the water level looks like it's about to go over the overflow box (probably not enough surface area. box is probably 10" long and 2-3" in depth; should of went larger, but probably too late now).

Just wondering if this should be fine or if i should drain the tank and remove the silicone from the overflow box and try to move it down a little bit further if I can.

Here is how it is set up:
outflow pipe-tank glass (via bulkhead)-overflow-bulkhead
3-sided overflow

bulkhead is sandwiching overflow onto glass and sealed with silicone just to keep water from going behind the overflow. over flow box is drilled so bulkhead goes through it from back.

power outage testing shows no sign of sump overflow or display tank overflow.

let me know your thoughts?

thanks,
steve

 

going to drain tank below box.
shop vac by top of box
dremel 4-6 teeth out

should solve it, will let you guys know

 

Noone is answering so I'll shoot at it.... lol

I used a dremel and ground out the holes bigger while the tank was running. The chips just went into the over-flow and the bag caught it all. If you have tiny fish you'll want to make the holes a little bigger and black zip tie wire mesh so they don't get sucked in. y six line did it a couple times.
"Making the holes bigger" does work but watch small fish or use mesh.
Otherwise your over-flow should be below your rim on the tank and allow for over pumping from the sump... what you need to watch for (if you turn your pump up) is the drain keeping up with the flow... in that case I used the 1" drain and a coupler to beef it to 1 and a half inch and it forced the water down the 1" bulkhead.
Good luck!

 

thought i replied to this thread!

i'll look into the 1.5" pipe, the 2-1" bulklheads seem to be doing a great job and the water line is just above them.

I took some water out, got the shop vac at ready, and dremeled out some of the teeth. Flow increased into the overflow box yet still at the top of the teeth, but I am content with how it is working.

I can now turn the pump on 100%, but I turned it down to 80% for a margin of error.

had to replace the mag 9.5 with a little giant sc 3 because it was leaking a little (tried running it externally.

thanks optimist! gonna try adn figure out how to give karma now

steve

 

Didn't notice you were brand new! WELCOME TO 3REEF!
You can use the 1" bulkhead and get the reducer from Home Depot to go from 1 1/2 to 1" and beef the piping...
2- 1" holes should be plenty for that amount of flow though. I think I am correct in saying it should handle between 1200 and 1400 gph running 2- 1" holes as drains. With your head height on the 9.5, you should be fine.

 

If you just started this tank give it time...The drain pipes may have some air in them and that will slow down the flow--my neighbors would only run at 20% at first. after a few days we kept increasing the pump and now with the pump at full tilt, the level still stays at bottom of teeth.

 

welcome to 3 reef lazy - boy

Optimist has it covered so hello is all I can add

Steve