What's More important?

Ok, I am currently cycling my 55 gallon tank. I know this is not optimal by any stretch, but I am using tap water with a conditioner for a water source. I also am running a HOB filter that came with the tank. It uses two filter pads and activated carbon. I also use a hydrometer to measure my salinity. My question is this, would you suggest i first get a RO unit, canister filter, or refractometer? I do plan on eventually getting all 3, but right now money is tight and was wondering what you all thought would be most immediate and important right now. My first thought is the RO unit, then refractometer then filter. I may be able to squeeze the RO unit and refractometer together depending on which ones I buy. Thanks for any input or advice.

 

I would say that depends on the quality of your tap water and the accuracy of your hydrometer. Our tap water is actually very good, with just a little detectable amount of phosphate. My hydrometer (Deep 6) wasn't too bad either, but I trust my refractometer a little more, and it's easier to use. Why get a canister filter if you have charcoal in your HOB filter? If you're planning on doing a sump later, you probably won't have much use for a canister filter down the road.
At least you've got your liverock, skimmer and lighting taken care of. ;D

 

I don't think my tap water is terrible, but it does have high nitrates, 20 ppm and a lot of dissolved solids. Right now my water is not that clear and is sort of cloudy. Its not like a bacterial bloom or anything, it is kinda hard to explain. But when I look through the sides of my tank, the 4 foot way, the visibility goes down. I've been to several lfs and seen their tanks and their water is very clear, not like mine. Even when I pour a glass of drinking water I can see tiny particles.

 

+1 on the ro/di unit. The "input" quality of your H2O is likely to be the largest variable if you aren't using one, as the quality will change dramatically if it rains hard, there is a drought, etc, which can change what is found coming out of the tap. Using a ro/di unit eliminates all of those concerns.

Honestly, if you are using a good commercial salt mix and measure it consistently when you make up your water, I really doubt you will see alot of variance in your specific gravity. I used to use a float arm hydrometer and switched over to a refractometer for greater accuracy. Honestly, I've NEVER had to adjust the salinity in my change water, as I use the same measuring cup and 2 gal bucket when I mix. While I did get the fancy-schmancy refractometer, I'm still measuring and mixing the same way I did when I used the hydrometer. It is consistently the same every time. I guess what I'm trying to get at is don't confuse having a sensitive way to measure (the refractometer) with accurate, consistent measuring!

Cheers!

Norman

 

Good point! Im just worried that my salinity levels may be elevated or too low without me knowing. Unless I have something to compare my water to, I don't know how accurate the hydrometer is. I got scared when I read a thread that mentioned several people whose hydrometer readings were off by .004 or more.

 

A good LFS should have a refractometer that they use to compare your salinity level. Bring them a sample.
Your description of your water is terrible. If I were you, I'd get an RO/DI. With the nitrates in your tap, you'll be having a swell time watching your algae [STRIKE]grow[/STRIKE] flourish while the tank cylces.

 

I would go for the R/O unit first. That will save you time and money in the long run when your fighting a bad algae problem. Not to mention when you just cant get your No3 or Po3/4 down either. Just a thought. Luna

 

thanks, I think that is what I will do asap

 

This may sound stupid, but since cycleing have you cleaned the tank glass yet?