when is it safe to???

hey everyone, for those of you who know what problems i went through a 2 weeks ago, when will it be safe to add snails, shrimp, or a fish?

 

I wouldn't take a chance on a shrimp yet but go ahead and add some snails and a replacement clown fish, assuming your levels still all read at "0".

 

I agree. Shrimps are very sensitive. Snails should be fine. But when you add them, put them all in one spot in the front, that way if some die, you wont have to search for them.

 

I have been doing my tests every other day:
ammonia - 0
nitrites - 0
nitrates - 0
ph - 8.2 - 8.4
alk - 1.6 - 1.7
sg - 1.023

 

To be clear, that alk reading is in dkh or kh? Either way, the "big 3" are in the perfect range to add some snails and one clown fish (I know you're anxious to replace the one you've lost) Just make sure that if you add a clown that it's smaller than the one you already have.

 

i actually hate my alk test, it's red sea and reads meq/l. I ordered the kh test, is this the same as alkalinity? kh said carbonate hardness and i ordered it. I'm not really good at chemistry so i hope i ordered the correct test. What is you alk supposed to be at? My alk is low but my ph is fine. what is suggested for low alk? Is it normal to get a bit of brown algae when using r/o water? I am doing my first water change tonight since that fatal week. I hope all goes well. Little nervous since evrything in my tank made it out quite healthy. My shrimp has molted 2 times since i got him, my hermits have as well, my jawfish is getting out more...nots so ghoraphobic anymore, lol and the clown and snails are great. I have lots of pods, copods and i believe they are called amphipods. I don't know, to me they are all bugs but i have alot on the glass and in my rocks, i hope this is a good sign. do you all run a filter and a skimmer?

 

Sorry....chemistry isn't my strong suit either. I meant to ask if the reading was in meq/l or dKH. Anyhoo, this excerpt from Salifert's website might explain alk readings to you a bit better than I can:

"Calcium alone cannot form the skeletal material of corals and allow calcareous algae to grow. Some other substances are needed as well. A few other constituents are carbonate and bicarbonate. These two substances also have a major impact on the stabilization of the pH in the proper range of 8.1 – 8.4. Such stabilization is also called buffering.

The total carbonate and bicarbonate concentration is also called carbonate alkalinity or carbonate hardness. The only difference between alkalinity and carbonate hardness is a conversion factor.

NSW has an alkalinity of approx. 2.7 meq/L or approx. 7.5 dKH when expressed as carbonate hardness.

For a stable system the alkalinity or carbonate hardness should have a value similar to NSW or slightly higher and should preferably not fluctuate by more than 5%. This means a maximum fluctuation of 0.14 meq/L or 0.4 dKH.

Therefore an alkalinity test kit should be capable in measuring in steps smaller than 0.14 meq/L.

Conclusion:

Since the major buffer components used for coral and calcareous algae growth are bicarbonate and carbonate, they should be added to correct any decrease in alkalinity or carbonate hardness.

A proper formulated buffer should function in such a way that the corrective measures results in a long lasting effect and should not upset the pH of the system. The alkalinity or carbonate hardness should be kept as stable as possible requiring highly sensitive and accurate means for testing.

The Salifert KH/Alk test is very straightforward. It measures in sufficient small steps of 0.1 meq/L or 0.3 dKH with a sharp color change. This makes detection of important yet small change possible.

The kit can perform approx. 100 - 200 measurements.

The Salifert KH + pH Buffer makes correction of the alkalinity or carbonate hardness simple and does not upset the pH of the system. Within 24 hours it will acquire the pH corresponding to other aquarium parameters. Should the pH remain low within 24 hours of corrective measures then an insufficient gaseous exchange (inefficient aeration) is quite often the cause."

Pods on the glass is a good sign and the brown algae that you're seeing is diatoms which is normal in a tank as youngs as yours. I do not run a filter because I have a sump. I do run a skimmer however.

 

ok, so to my understanding carbonate hardness and alkalinity is the same just read differently. So if mine is low I should use a buffer. My ph is good so will a buffer lower the ph or make it higher? Do you recommend a buffer that is safe and easy to use?

 

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you but I've been out of town.

Adding a buffer will not lower your ph but keeping your calcium and alk levels at the proper levels will keep your ph stable which is what you want. If your alk is low, you need to get it higher with a buffer. I like to use Kent's:

Kent Marine Superbuffer DKH 1 kg - Marine Depot - Marine and Reef Aquarium Super Store

If your calcium is low, you need to get it higher with a calcium supplement. I recommend Kent's for this supplement as well:

Kent Marine Turbo Calcium 800 g (1 Qt) - Marine Depot - Marine and Reef Aquarium Super Store

If your magnesium is low, you will have a hell of a time keeping your calcium and alk levels steady. Because of this, you need to invest in a magnesium test kit. If your magnesium is low, you need to raise it. For this, I like to use epsom salts.

 

Thanks So Much. Actually I Got A Carbonate Hardness Test And It Shows 9dkh Or 161.1 Ppm. I Forgot To Order My Calcium Test So I Have To Do That Before Using A Buffer.